Do it your self timing and how an autococker works
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Information about autocockers
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I'm about to give out one of my biggest timing secrets. I have my gun timed like this and i time cockers at my proshop and the timing is awesome. This will only work if you have a hinge trigger. What i'm about to tell you will make your cocker fire on safety with a slight tap. But your 3 way will do the recocking so the trigger pull will be based on how short your 3 way switch is. Please do not atempt if you have no clue what you are doing. The trigger pull will be short and stiff, but snappy.

Step One
Take off your trigger and take out your sear. I'm not going to go into detail because if you are going to do this you will need some experience. Then take your sear spring and stretch it until the spring sticks out of the trigger frame. This will keep the lug from slipping off of the sear. Once you have done this you will need to reassemble your trigger and put it back on your gun.

Step Two
Take out your bolt. Now insert a 1/8 allen wrench into the hole at the top of your cocker. You will have to play with the cocking rod until you feel the allen key go into the lug. Now spin counterclockwise about 1 full spin just to get it near the spot it needs to be. Now take out the allen key and put your trigger on safety. Once you have done this tap the trigger. If it does not fire then turn reinsert the allen key and turn counterclockwise 1/4 a turn. Repeat until your gun fires on safety. You do not need air to test this. Once you have the trigger firing on saftey then it is time to adjust the collar.

Step Three
You will need air to adjust your collar. Air up your gun and put the gun on safety. Move your collar forward about 1 turn. Now fire the gun on safety and hold down the trigger, if you hear the 3 way start to vent then it is a little to far forward. Turn it until it is on the verge of venting but not venting. Once it is like this Tighten it down.

Step Four
Air up your gun and fire it as fast as you can and see if the lug is slipping off of the sear. If it is (make sure you are not short stroking it when this happens, if it happens when you short stroke it nothing is wrong) slipping off the sear then just stretch the sear spring some more.

Step Five
If you have a trigger that is adjustable then we can get rid of the play. All an adjustable trigger does is get rid of play. It just stops sooner. Pull the trigger slowly and find exactly where the pull for the cocking ends. Now with a WGP hinge you can take off the grips and insert a 5/64 allen key and turn clockwise to get rid of the play remember where the spot is that you marked where the trigger pull ends. Now keep turning and pulling the trigger until you find that it is where the spot you marked is. Make it a tiny bit longer than necessary just in case you under estimated.

Put some paint in your hopper and test it out. You will find your rof has increased and your chances of short stroking has decreased. My current trigger pull with a WGP hinge trigger and angry 3 way is shorter than half of the stock trigger pull. People with bombs and the new WGP super short 3 way should be able to get it much shorter.

If you have any questions on this subject just e-mail me at

The process shouldn't take too long. Thank you for reading this and if you read my other stickies.

-Magicsly (here for all your cocker needs)

This has only been used on WGP hinge triggers. I will let you know how it works for the others. I'm going to get my hands on a dye and eclipse trigger frames and will try this timing on them.

Now there are two basic parts to a cocker. First you have the firing action. When you first pull the trigger the sear will let go of the lug. The lug is the thing on the hammer. When you are adjusting the timing you adjust the lug. But when you pull the trigger the sear inside of the trigger lets go of the lug and the hammer hits the pin valve. Now in normal guns when the striker or hammer hits the pin valve it releases air out the back to cock the gun but a cocker doesn't do this. When the valve pin is struck it just lets air out the wholes which lead to the bolt. The hole in the bottom of your bolt is the whole that the air travels through. If you have the bolt upside down it won't shoot because the hole isn't lined up with the valve. It also important to have your back block a certain distance away fromt he body so the bolts hole is lined up with the valve. You want it about paper thin away from the body. But not too close or too far so that you can fit a peice of cardboard in it.

Let me say this again. The firing part of the cocker is just the sear letting go of the lug and the hammer hitting the valve pin opening the valve letting air into the bolt firing the gun. Now if you fire the gun then it needs to recock. Thats where the pneumatics come in to play.

After the gun fires the timing rod will be pulled (with sliding triggers) or pushed (pivot triggers) so that the 3 way will reverse letting air into the ram pushing it back causeing the back block to move back. I say reverse because when the gun is gased up and just sitting there the 3 way is open just the other way so the back block is sucked to the gun. The air is keeping pressure on one side of ram keeping it back. When you pull the trigger the 3 way operates like a valve. Now when the timing rod moves it moves the o-rings inside from blocking some of the 3 holes in the 3 way to others so the air reverses and it pushes the pump arm back pushing the back block back. Notice if you hold down the trigger the back block stays back. This is because there is air running into the ram still. It doesn't go forward until you reverse the air flow in the 3 way.

Now when you let go of the trigger the 3 way reverses the air so it pushes it forward. Now the sear is in place alos because you let go of the trigger. The cocking rod is connected to the hammer and the hammer has the lug in it. So when the back block pulls the cocking rod back its pulling the hammer back and the lug is now behind the sear. So when the trigger is let go the sear catches the lug and the process is started over again.

I have a diagram of this action in my Timing and Taking Apart an Autococker.

If any questions plz e-mial me. I'm always glad to help. DasBaldDog is of great assistance for help also. Just pm one of us and we will be glad to help

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